So, I made it through this year’s South by Southwest festival without any sunburn, hangovers, or blisters on my feet. Don’t know about you, but I call that a success!
My roommates and I spent most of Wednesday in the small town of Gruene, a quaint old village with a grist mill (now a restaurant) and a dance hall where we saw the Drive-By Truckers play. The weather was perfect, the Truckers were good, and Ellie could tell you more about it. It felt a little weird going away from Austin on the first day of SXSW, but I was comforted knowing that Thursday and Friday belonged to me. (Muahahaha) I spent a couple of days poring over every free/unofficial show list I could find to compile a near-perfect schedule. Honestly, I can’t imagine that having a badge or wristband would have made my week any better. Everywhere I went, there were no lines, no hassles, no worries, and best of all, it didn’t cost me anything.
I took it easy on Thursday. This year was my very first SXSW, something I’ve been looking forward to for years, but I had absolutely no idea what to expect as far as crowds, lines, RSVPs, food, drinks, and bathrooms. The French Legation Museum was hosting a free Lawn Party that looked like a pretty good bargain for the day, with a lineup that included The Antlers, Zola Jesus, Holly Miranda, and The xx. When my roommate dropped us off at 1:30, Ellie and I walked right through the gates and found virtually no crowd at all.
The Antlers got a little bit of a late start around 2:20 after what seemed like an endlessly frustrating sound check. I had listened through their album Hospice a little while back and wasn’t very impressed despite all the good press I’d read, but I was still curious to see what they would be like live. They used a lot of synth and feedback to create an ambient backdrop for their moody little dramas. I held my breath for the lead singer as he reached for ever more impossible high notes. “Swoony,” Ellie observed after the first song. Despite my skepticism, I have to admit they were pretty good live, and I might give them another chance.
I spend most of Zola Jesus‘ set standing in line for the bathroom, and that was probably for the best. Harsh? Not my thing. I had heard one of her songs before and thought it was pretty decent. She has a big, commanding voice and some doomy synthesizers, but all of the songs sounded exactly the same. The day was all wrong for her, too. It was gorgeous and sunny, she played on a tiny stage at the bottom of a grassy hill surrounded by historic buildings and a stone fence. She wore all black and flailed around with more energy than the music really called for.
We walked a couple blocks south to the Eastbound and Found stages on East 6th Street, just in time to catch The Morning Benders, a band I was really excited to see. I think I like them; their new album Big Echo was produced by Grizzly Bear’s Chris Taylor and they do sound a little like Grizzly Jr., heavy on the bass, four-part harmonies, and dreamy nostalgia. I was shocked to see how young they were — I’ve seen pictures but I didn’t think they were actually that young. Like fetuses. But really adorable Cali pop-playing fetuses.
We walked around 6th St. to ogle the craziness for awhile, but never made it back to the French Legation. Instead we walked almost all the way home before stopping for margaritas and some Tex-Mex.
Friday was a whirlwind. We had quite a bit of trekking around town to get from one show to another and were blessed with some impeccable timing. Started out at 1:00 pm in the parking lot of Waterloo Records and saw folk rock legend John Hiatt play to a full crowd (also, a much older crowd than we had seen at SXSW so far). Hiatt played one of the more fun sets I saw last week; he’s an old pro who had a great supporting band with him. Ellie and I especially admired his hot collection of guitars that he and his other guitarist rotated throughout the set.
Next, we saw Shearwater, a band I don’t actually like but wanted to see live anyway. At this point, the size of the crowd was cut in half. Jonathan Meiburg’s incredible, theatrical voice was just as impressive in person as on record, but while the songs were pretty, they were also kind of dull. I’m not up on their discography, but I do know they played a good version of “Rooks” from the album of same name.
What I was really looking forward to that day was Miles Kurosky, the former lead singer of San Francisco (and Elephant 6) band Beulah. The crowd thinned way down — apparently John Hiatt was going to be the most popular act of the day — which made me a little sad for Kurosky’s first solo outing. A gaggle of teenage girls behind me wondered aloud which Beulah songs he would play. Answer: none. I was surprised to find that Miles can actually rock pretty hard. Never thought I’d say that. Beulah was always kind of fussy in its grand pop arrangements but looking back, I realize I underestimated that they did, in fact, rock sometimes. The sound guy needed to turn his mic up; the vocals were almost completely buried. Halfway through Kurosky’s set, he stopped to apologize, “I feel like I’m not giving 100%…I have this funny disease…” alluding (I think) to some of the health problems he’s struggled with for the past couple years. Apparently he felt awful for the entire Waterloo set, but hung in there until the end, despite looking increasingly distressed.
From there, we had an hour to get down to End of an Ear, a small record shop in South Austin. Thanks to a little ride and a lot of walking, we made it home, changed clothes and shoes, and arrived at End of an Ear just in time to see Efterklang start their set. Efterklang is an ethereal art-rock band from Denmark who make dense and dreamy songs like Sigur Ros, but with the song-oriented accessibility of Sufjan Stevens or Vespertine-era Bjork. They have a sprawling, spacious sound, so I was very curious to see how that would play in a tiny record shop. There were six of them crammed into a corner, but they had great attitudes, marveling over their first in-store performance (ever), playing to more intimate crowds outside their own country, smiling and cracking up the whole time. Although they claimed their set would be very stripped down, I couldn’t tell a significant different in scope. Efterklang was probably the most pleasant surprise of SXSW for me. The new material sounded crisp in the small space. I don’t know how many fans were in the audience, but the Danes won over the whole room by the end. A couple guys who rushed in the door as the band said their final goodbyes begged for one more song. “We just got here!” they yelled, and the band happily obliged them for a brief encore.
From there, we made it over to Home Slice on South Congress, where the pizza joint was hosting their free Music by the Slice event. We were there to see Lou Barlow, but showed up in time to catch the Cave Singer‘s entire set. And pizza. Man, I love Lou Barlow. It should have been weird to see him at something like SXSW. Although not exactly a household name, he’s been a mainstay in the indie world since Dinosaur Jr.’s first album back in 1987. And I don’t even know if Dinosaur played South by this year, but I did spot J. Mascis earlier in the day behind the Waterloo stage.
Lou Barlow’s performance style isn’t really suited to the 5-song set format of SX; you really need two hours in a laid-back setting where people can call out requests and let him fumble around a bit, telling stories. His set that night was a nice happy medium; he took a lot of requests but stuck only to songs he knew well. I was front and center, and had too many favorite moments to name, but at one point he announced, “So I read online that this song is terrible…” and then shrugged it off: “I have no filter.” He launched into “Take Advantage” from his last solo album, Goodnight Unknown. Also, nice to be in a crowd full of people who know him and his extensive catalogue. The audience wanted to keep him. He puzzled over how quiet and attentive the crowd was, in contrast with the rowdy Sixth Street parties he had played earlier in the week. “Welcome to South Austin,” someone explained. Because Barlow was playing Home Slice’s last show of the night, the organizers didn’t seem to care much about time limits. He played an extended set (lots of good old Sebadoh, too: “Soul and Fire,” “Brand New Love,” “Skull,” “Not a Friend,” “Willing to Wait,” and “Too Pure”), and even played a couple songs on ukulele after the crowd insisted on an encore.
We settled at Doc’s awhile to drink away the pain in our feet, and by 10:30 pm, we were ready for round two! We walked over to the Continental Club, where No Depression hosted a showcase, and saw the Deadstring Brothers play. We did a bit of dancing, admired the band’s collective hairiness, and then went home to collapse.
My SX experience on Saturday was unplanned and (pleasantly) unexpected. Ellie and I knew we wanted to catch a couple of acts at Auditorium Shores, where Deer Tick, Lucero, and She & Him would be playing later in the evening. I went downtown for a couple of hours to volunteer at the museum, and decided to do some impromptu wandering with a friend after I got off — it was fucking cold! And dark! And windy! And I was only wearing a thin dress with some sweater tights, but I braved the misery, determined to eke out some more enjoyment on this last day of the great SXSW. We rushed east of I-35 in the hopes of catching Austin instrumental band Balmorhea, but even though we were only ten minutes late, we caught the last song. Seriously, who runs ahead of schedule at a time like this?
Then we wandered up to the French Legation to see what was going on. Again we caught one final song, this time from Admiral Radley who, as my companion pointed out, sounded an awful lot like Grandaddy. (Aha! Mystery solved... that’s because they are Grandaddy, plus Earlimart. I knew I recognized Ariana Murray on keyboards!) Even though the wind and cold were getting increasingly dire, we decided to stick it out at least to see what the next band, Denmark’s The Kissaway Trail, was like. They weren’t bad, as far as I could tell from the one song we heard, moody, synthy, a bit 80s, (doesn’t hurt me that they were pretty Scandinavian boys with cool hair) but the cold sent us skittering away to a more indoor location.
We ducked into the inviting warmth (well, relatively) of Shangri-la and caught a couple of pretty excellent bands I’d never heard of. First up was the Treetop Flyers, a band from England with a rootsy, soulful, 70s soft-rock sound a la Crosby, Stills and Nash, Harry Chapin, with a little Van Morrison thrown in. I should have bought their EP that was on sale, but really needed to hold on to my last five bucks in cash until I knew what the food sitch was like. After the Treetop Flyers, Tape Deck Mountain played a noisy, percussive set with a lot of feedback and some good grooves that reminded me a little of a less-angsty Elliott.
We met up with Ellie at Auditorium Shores, but none of us realized they had pushed the showcase back by two or three hours due to the harsh winds. Expecting Lucero to start at 6:00, instead we got Kimya Dawson kicking off the whole shebang. I’m not crazy about her music at all, but she was gracious and charming enough, even though her hands were almost too cold to play the guitar. After that, a thoroughly bland and middle-of-the-road folk rock band called Dawes played. I felt bad for disliking them because they seemed like really nice guys. But at this point, it was clear that we would not last another hour outside in the cold waiting for Lucero to play, especially now that the sun was dipping below the horizon. We gave up the fight and headed to Fran’s for hamburgers and shelter.
And that concludes my SXSW! Highlights: Efterklang, The Morning Benders, Lou Barlow, and The Treetop Flyers.
So, what were your favorites this year?
…was pretty slow. I mean, when the most exciting thing that happens is a Peter Gabriel covers record (albeit one that includes songs by Magnetic Fields, Arcade Fire, and Bon Iver), you’ve got problems. That was fine by me, because I was still processing the wealth of albums I’ve acquired this month — and the month isn’t even over yet.
This week promises to be more interesting. Today I want to pick up Joanna Newsom‘s new triple album, Have One On Me, and Swedish group Sambassadeur‘s European. Ideally, I’d love to cover Newsom’s release in three parts, but that’s a dangerous statement to make. I also hope that things around here will be more exciting as SXSW approaches.
So, today the A.V. Club Austin reported on the release of the first tentative SXSW schedule, and truly, I am in complete awe of this list. You could easily spend an hour skimming the list of bands slated to play this year. Skimming. The obsessive list-maker in me wants to catalogue the names of bands I’ve listened to, and then expand that to the bands I’ve vaguely heard of. Even if I listed all of the bands whose names I’ve heard mentioned, it would only account for a mere 5% of the artists on the entire list. My mind boggles that there could be so many musicians on the whole planet, much less descending on this city throughout the space of a week. Or half week. Crap.
Sorry to sound so naive. But you cityfolk have no idea what it’s like to grow up in a musical wasteland and then suddenly hit the motherlode. I’m spinning.